wave refraction

简明释义

波折射

英英释义

例句

1.The study of wave refraction 波浪折射 helps predict where waves will break along the coastline.

对波浪折射 波浪折射的研究有助于预测波浪将在海岸线的哪里破裂。

2.During a storm, the wave refraction 波浪折射 can lead to dangerous conditions for small boats.

在风暴期间，波浪折射 波浪折射可能导致小船面临危险的情况。

3.The phenomenon of wave refraction 波浪折射 occurs when waves travel from deep water to shallow water.

当波浪从深水区进入浅水区时，波浪折射 波浪折射现象发生。

4.The wave refraction 波浪折射 can significantly affect the erosion patterns on the beach.

波浪的波浪折射 波浪折射会显著影响海滩的侵蚀模式。

5.Understanding wave refraction 波浪折射 is essential for coastal engineering projects.

理解波浪折射 波浪折射对于海岸工程项目至关重要。

作文

Understanding the phenomenon of wave refraction is crucial for anyone interested in oceanography, coastal engineering, or even surfing. wave refraction refers to the bending of waves as they approach the shore at an angle. This bending occurs due to the change in the speed of the wave as it moves from deeper water into shallower water. In deeper water, waves travel faster, but as they enter shallower regions, their speed decreases, causing them to bend towards the shore. This process can significantly affect the energy distribution of the waves and consequently impact coastal erosion, sediment transport, and the formation of various coastal features.To illustrate, consider a scenario where ocean waves are approaching a coastline that has a series of underwater reefs. As these waves reach the reefs, the part of the wave that hits the reef first slows down while the rest of the wave continues moving at a higher speed. This differential speed causes the wave to bend, or refract, around the reef. The result is that the wave energy concentrates in certain areas, which can lead to increased erosion in those spots and deposition in others. Understanding wave refraction is essential for predicting where sand will accumulate or erode along the beach.Moreover, wave refraction plays a significant role in navigation. For instance, boats navigating near the shore must be aware of how waves will behave as they approach different coastal features. If a boat is traveling parallel to the shore, the captain should understand that waves may bend towards the shallow areas, potentially creating hazardous conditions. Knowledge of wave refraction can thus contribute to safer navigation practices.In addition to its practical implications, wave refraction also has aesthetic and recreational significance. Surfers often seek out specific locations where the waves are refracted in a way that produces ideal surfing conditions. Certain surf spots become famous because the local geography causes the waves to break in a particular manner, providing the perfect ride for surfers. By studying wave refraction, surfers can identify the best times and places to catch waves, enhancing their overall experience.Furthermore, the study of wave refraction extends beyond just physical phenomena; it also intersects with environmental concerns. Coastal development and climate change can alter wave patterns and refraction effects, leading to unforeseen consequences for marine ecosystems. For example, if human activities disrupt natural coastal processes, they may inadvertently increase the vulnerability of certain areas to erosion or flooding. Therefore, understanding wave refraction is not only essential for scientific knowledge but also for sustainable coastal management practices.In conclusion, wave refraction is a fundamental concept in understanding how ocean waves interact with coastlines. Its implications span various fields, including engineering, navigation, recreation, and environmental science. By grasping the mechanics of wave refraction, individuals can better appreciate the dynamic nature of our coastlines and the importance of preserving these vital ecosystems for future generations.

理解波的折射现象对于任何对海洋学、海岸工程或甚至冲浪感兴趣的人来说都是至关重要的。波的折射是指当波浪以一定角度接近海岸时发生的弯曲现象。这种弯曲是由于波浪在从深水区进入浅水区时速度的变化所引起的。在深水区，波浪传播速度较快，但当它们进入浅水区时，速度会减慢，从而导致波浪向海岸弯曲。这个过程可以显著影响波浪的能量分布，进而影响海岸侵蚀、沉积物运输以及各种海岸特征的形成。例如，考虑一个场景，海洋波浪正接近一个有一系列水下礁石的海岸线。当这些波浪到达礁石时，首先撞击礁石的波浪部分速度减慢，而其余波浪则继续以较高速度移动。这种速度差异导致波浪向礁石弯曲或折射。结果是波浪能量集中在某些区域，这可能导致这些地方的侵蚀加剧，而其他地方则可能沉积。因此，理解波的折射对于预测沙子在海滩上会聚积或侵蚀的位置至关重要。此外，波的折射在航行中也发挥着重要作用。例如，靠近海岸航行的船只必须了解波浪在接近不同海岸特征时的行为。如果一艘船沿海岸平行航行，船长应该明白波浪可能会向浅水区弯曲，从而可能造成危险的情况。因此，了解波的折射可以有助于更安全的航行实践。除了实际影响外，波的折射还有美学和娱乐意义。冲浪者通常会寻找特定地点，在那里波浪的折射产生理想的冲浪条件。某些冲浪点因当地地理特征导致波浪以特定方式破裂而闻名，为冲浪者提供完美的体验。通过研究波的折射，冲浪者可以识别最佳的时间和地点来捕捉波浪，从而增强整体体验。此外，波的折射的研究不仅限于物理现象；它还与环境问题交叉。海岸开发和气候变化可能改变波浪模式和折射效应，导致对海洋生态系统产生意想不到的后果。例如，如果人类活动干扰了自然海岸过程，可能会无意中增加某些区域对侵蚀或洪水的脆弱性。因此，理解波的折射不仅对科学知识至关重要，而且对可持续的海岸管理实践也至关重要。总之，波的折射是理解海洋波浪如何与海岸线相互作用的基本概念。它的影响跨越多个领域，包括工程、导航、娱乐和环境科学。通过掌握波的折射的机制，个人可以更好地欣赏我们海岸线的动态特性，以及保护这些重要生态系统以造福未来世代的重要性。